The Boldness of Chinese Cooking

―――Why did you choose Chinese cuisine?

Initially by process of elimination — Japanese cuisine seemed too strict, French chef’s hats unappealing — but he was ultimately drawn to the boldness of Chinese cooking, where a single wok can produce infinite varieties of dishes.

―――Why did you move to Waves after 12 years at Szechwan?

Not looking to go independent, he was simply invited by a friend to help out. But over time, his desire for a counter-style restaurant where he could interact directly with guests grew — leading to the launch of Ichirin.

Deconstruction, Reconstruction, and Design in Chinese Cuisine

―――What is the core philosophy behind your cooking?

‘Deconstruction and reconstruction’ — breaking every dish down to its components and asking whether each ingredient is truly optimal. He also focuses on designing the dining experience itself: through plateware, presentation, and service, he creates new value beyond taste alone.

Choosing Ingredients for Multiplicative Impact

―――Why did you choose Hashizumen noodles?

He uses the Hong Kong noodle for simple soups and yakisoba. The noodle’s fragrance, quality, and originality were decisive — fitting his philosophy of choosing ingredients that are not merely ‘additive’ but ‘multiplicative’ to his dishes.

―――How do you use the Sansho noodle?

As part of the ‘three-way use’ of Saliva Chicken — served alongside gyoza, the noodle, and the soup. The Sansho noodle was discovered while searching for a noodle that paired with the saliva chicken tare; placing it at the start of the course gives an immediate aromatic and textural impact.